Happy in Hampi

Hampi

Our last few days in Palolem were immense - more glorious sun, sea, food and ...dolpins! Our boat trip with Mr Max was amazing, up early at 7am we set sail as the sun was rising hopeful to see a glimpse of the local dolphins. We were not disappointed, spotting around 5 or 6 including a mother and calf playing just in front of the boat.


We could have easily stayed in Paloelm for many more days but feeling we should really move on we booked the sleeper bus to Hampi, a ruined Hindu city set amongst a landscape of huge erractic boulders in the next state, Karnataka.


We met the 'tourist' sleeper bus from the near by town of Chaudi, at Rs700 per person it is definitely not as good value as the sleeper train. The bus was extremely basic, noisy, cramped & toilet-less. Our bunk for 2 was incredibly small with little room for us both to lie down unless on our sides - thank goodness we could share together otherwise you would have to spoon a stranger! Despite this the bus was quite exciting & felt like an adventure! The road to Hampi was extremely bumpy and we were relieved we hadn't chosen to travel there ourselves on a motorbike as I am not sure our spines could have taken it. According to John at one point we were both airborne, needless to say I slept through most of the journey. That is with the exception of a midnight outing of my Whiz Freedom, quite a skilled operation as we thundered round the corners on two wheels. Too much information I am sure but any ladies reading this about to go travelling - take a Whiz!


As we drew closer to Hampi we realised we were being followed by an army of rickshaw drivers all calling out to us, trying to stake a claim on our business before the bus pulled up - 'Sir, madam, I am here, I saw you first...', as we fought through them to get off the bus we chose a young guy at the back waiting far more patiently than the rest and agreed on Rs10 to the main bazaar area to grab some breakfast - resisting his pleas to take us to see some rooms, where of course he would get some baksheesh (commission).


After some yummy breakfast of eggs, toast & masala chai at the New Shanti cafe we started to wander down to the get the small boat across the river. Hampi is split in to two main areas by the Tungabhadra River, the main temple & baazar area where we had arrived and the far quieter Virupapuragadda (also known locally as Hampi Island although part of the main land) where most of the chilled out guest houses are situated - they only get power for 4 hours a day at best which was quite appealing to us for a few super chilled days.

Lakshmi getting his morning bath

Our first glimpse of the river revealed a hive of activity - families washing clothes, children bathing and a small Indian man scrubbing his elephant, nothing is unusual in India! We later found out that this was Lakshmi the main temple elephant. After a quick crossing on the boat for Rs20 which we shared with a very colourful & jolly Indian man singing & playing an accordion type instrument we started looking for a room. We quickly found a gorgeous room at Bobby Guesthouse at the bargain price of Rs200 (under 3 quid).


That afternoon we got chatting to a couple of locals who told us about a gorgeous fresh water lake perfect for swimming only four kilometers away. Keen to check it out and cool off we hired 2 very classic looking single

Cliff jumping

speed push bikes. The cycle there was brilliant, taking us through a rural village with beautiful local children running after us and giving us high fives. At the top of an extremely steep hill (sweat fest with a single speed!)we finally found the stunning lake and joined a few people who were jumping off a bridge into the water ignoring the 'Beware of the crocodiles' sign. With an audience of locals we went for it - the water was gorgeous and jumping in was great fun! John even ventured up on to the high rocks to jump - I wasn't quite brave enough.

Our trusty steed

The next day we decided to hire a motorbike to explore the Hanuman (Monkey) Temple a little further a field. The bike was hilarious, a tiny little TVS Heavy Duty, which looked more like a push, pedal & pop bike and couldn't even make it up the hills without John using his legs to push too. I was providing moral support giggling on the back! I suppose at Rs100 for the day you can't expect too much power. The Monkey Temple perched high on the top of a hill had around 600 steep white washed steps to reach the top. The views on the walk up were stunning and we met lots of locals springing up with ease and wondered if the do this daily to worship at the temple? We met a couple of black faced monkeys en route before reaching the breathtaking summit.

Monkey Temple

Everyday between 12:00 - 14:30 the Hindu men who live at the shrine to Hanuman chant and play the drums, so our timing was perfect and the calming sounds made the temple extremely atmospheric. This was our favourite spot in Hampi.


The next few days were extremely chilled just wandering around the many ruins and temples, swimming in the lake and sitting playing cards eating delicious food in an amazing cafe called The Mango tree. A perfect spot on the banks of the river with sensational views and traditional thalis & coconut currys! A few days could easily turn to weeks in Hampi.

Getting blessed by Lakshmi

Our final day was one of the busiest & best - we visited the main Sri Virupaksha Temple which dominates the skyline of central Hampi. After paying Rs20 entry we explored the many rooms & shrines watching the hundreds of pilgrims pray & whisper to which ever god they favoured. One huge crowd revealed the location of the gorgeous temple elephant, Lakshmi, who we had watched get his morning bath just days before. The locals explained that if you pay a small donation Lakshmi will bless you...a much longer blessing for notes rather than coins. Clever elephant! True enough we stepped forward and passed him a Rs5 coin which was expertly passed to his keeper and then gently he blessed you on the head. We then passed him a Rs10 note which was followed by a much slower & lingering blessing, not before passing the cash to his keeper of course. I couldn't get over just how gentle he was.


After John's first Indian hair cutting experience, which only drew a little blood, we decided to explore some of the ruins which are only accessible from the river due to a flood in 1992. You do this on the local coracle boats which are basic bowl shaped boats made from woven grasses, slightly wobbly to get in and out of but cool looking boats. Our guide, a young local boy, was excellent and explained so much about Hampi & the Hindu faith. We were so relaxed at the end we didn't want to get off.


That night we had organised to move on from Hampi to Cochin (also known as Kochi) further south in Kerala by sleeper bus to Bangalore followed by the sleeper train the next night to Cochin. We were slightly disappointed to be leaving as it was the Diwali festival, the festival of light which to us basically meant hundreds of fireworks & firecrackers being exploded by every family & group of children on every street corner. Totally mental but quite exciting - I wonder how many kids burn themselves or worse! It was like being thrown in to a war zone as we boarded the bus, rockets shooting past us from every direction. I was a nervous wreck!


Next stop Cochin...